Hyaluronic Acid
INCI · Sodium Hyaluronate · also HA, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hyaluronan
How it works
Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring glycosaminoglycan already present in your dermis, where it holds water within the tissue matrix. As a topical, it functions as a humectant — it binds water molecules at the skin's surface and within the upper epidermis, creating an immediate plumping effect that smooths the look of fine lines within minutes.
Molecular weight matters more than most brands admit: high-molecular-weight HA sits on the surface and forms a hydrating film, while low-molecular-weight fragments penetrate more deeply and may have a mild signaling role in skin repair. Our own dermal hyaluronic acid content declines with age and cumulative UV exposure, which is part of why skin looks progressively less plump over the decades.
The evidence
Controlled studies using corneometry have repeatedly shown significant increases in skin hydration within one to eight weeks of topical hyaluronic acid use, with effects that are dose- and molecular-weight-dependent. Formulations blending multiple molecular weights tend to outperform single-weight products, since they can act on both the surface film and slightly deeper epidermal layers simultaneously.
Suitability
- Dry and dehydrated skin: the foundational hydrating step
- Oily skin: adds water without adding oil, unlike heavier emollients
- Sensitive skin: exceptionally well tolerated, rarely a sensitizer
- Mature skin: helps offset the natural age-related decline in dermal HA content
Concentration
Effective serums typically use 0.1–2% of a hyaluronic acid blend (multiple molecular weights). More is not better here — above 2%, texture becomes tacky without added benefit. I look for formulas combining at least two molecular weights, since blended-weight products tend to perform more consistently across different climates.
Conflicts & combinations
- Apply to damp skin and seal with a moisturizer or occlusive — in dry air, HA alone on bare skin can reverse-pull moisture from the dermis
- Layers well with niacinamide, ceramides, and panthenol
- No known conflicts with acids, retinoids, or vitamin C
- A safe, foundational step that belongs in nearly every routine regardless of what actives follow it
- dryness
- uneven texture
- anti aging
- Effective from
- 1%
- Max safe
- 2%
Should hyaluronic acid be applied to wet or dry skin?
Damp skin — it needs ambient moisture to draw from, and you should seal it with a moisturizer afterward.
Can hyaluronic acid dry out your skin?
In very low humidity, unsealed HA can occasionally pull moisture from deeper layers, which is why locking it in with a cream matters.
What's the difference between hyaluronic acid and sodium hyaluronate?
Sodium hyaluronate is the salt form, has a smaller molecule size, and penetrates skin more easily than pure hyaluronic acid.
Can you use hyaluronic acid with retinol?
Yes — it's commonly recommended to offset the dryness retinol can cause.
Is hyaluronic acid safe for oily and acne-prone skin?
Yes, it's non-comedogenic and hydrates without adding oil.
- PubMedPMID 25573272 ↗