Urea
INCI · Urea · also Carbamide, Carbonyldiamide
How it works
Urea is a small nitrogen-containing molecule naturally present in the skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), where it accounts for a meaningful share of the stratum corneum's water-binding capacity. In formulations, it functions on two levels depending on concentration. At low concentrations (2–10%), it acts primarily as a humectant, binding water within the stratum corneum and improving the skin's overall water-holding capacity and flexibility. At higher concentrations (15–40%), it additionally disrupts hydrogen bonding between keratin filaments, producing a keratolytic effect that loosens and sheds thickened, dry, or scaly skin. This dual action makes urea unusual among humectants, since it can both hydrate and gently exfoliate depending on how it is formulated.
The evidence
Urea is one of the most studied moisturizing agents in dermatology, with decades of use in prescription and over-the-counter emollients. Clinical trials support its use in xerosis, atopic dermatitis, ichthyosis, and diabetic skin dryness, consistently showing improvements in hydration and reductions in transepidermal water loss (TEWL) at concentrations from 5% upward. Higher-concentration formulations are established treatments for calluses, corns, and severe hyperkeratosis, and are often recommended by podiatrists and dermatologists for resistant foot dryness.
Suitability
- Well suited to dry, rough, or flaky skin, including body areas like heels and elbows.
- Low-concentration formulas (under 10%) are generally tolerated by sensitive skin and are sometimes used in pediatric emollients.
- Higher concentrations are not recommended for the face or for compromised, cracked, or eczema-flaring skin without guidance, as stinging is common.
Concentration
Facial and body moisturizers typically use 2–10% urea. Concentrations of 10–20% are used for more resistant dry patches, while 20–40% formulations are reserved for thick calluses and are usually applied under occlusion or with a spatula rather than as leave-on facial care.
Conflicts & combinations
Urea pairs well with other humectants and barrier lipids, such as glycerin and ceramides, which offset any transient dryness from its keratolytic action. It is not typically layered with strong exfoliating acids on the same area, as the combined keratolytic effect can increase irritation risk, particularly at higher urea concentrations.
- dryness
- uneven texture
- dullness
- Effective from
- 10%
- Max safe
- 40%
Is urea good for dry skin?
Yes. Urea is one of the best-studied ingredients for dry, rough, or scaling skin, improving both hydration and texture.
What percentage of urea is best for the face?
For facial use, 2–10% urea is typical; higher concentrations are usually reserved for body areas like feet and elbows.
Does urea help with cracked heels?
Yes, 20–40% urea creams are a standard treatment for thick, cracked heel skin and calluses.
Can urea cause stinging?
It can, particularly at higher concentrations or on broken, cracked, or actively inflamed skin.
Can urea be used with retinol?
Yes, urea's hydrating and mild keratolytic action can complement retinol use by supporting the skin barrier, though application may be alternated to reduce irritation.