Growth Factors (Skincare)

Growth factors are signalling proteins that cells naturally use to communicate instructions such as dividing, repairing tissue and producing collagen. In skincare they are added to serums and creams with the aim of prompting skin cells to behave in a more youthful, regenerative way.

In the body, growth factors bind to receptors on the cell surface and trigger internal responses, including the production of collagen, elastin and other structural components. Cosmetic products may contain individual factors, such as epidermal growth factor (EGF), or complex mixtures derived from cultured human cells, plants or other sources. Peptide fragments and copper-peptide complexes such as GHK-Cu are sometimes grouped alongside them because they also act as signalling messengers.

These ingredients are generally marketed for signs of ageing, including fine lines, loss of firmness and slow recovery after procedures. Some studies suggest topical growth factors may support the appearance of firmer, smoother skin, though results depend heavily on the specific factor, its concentration and whether it can penetrate the skin barrier, since large proteins do not pass easily.

• Often found in premium anti-ageing serums and post-procedure recovery products.
• Usually well tolerated, but formulation and stability vary widely between brands.

Evidence remains mixed and the category is complex, with ongoing scientific discussion about how much of an intact protein actually reaches living skin. Because growth factors influence cell activity, individuals with a history of skin cancers or active concerns may prefer to seek professional advice before use.