anti-aging

Bakuchiol

INCI · Bakuchiol · also Babchi Extract

EWG safety

How it works

Bakuchiol is a meroterpene extracted from the seeds and leaves of Psoralea corylifolia, the babchi plant, and it has become the go-to "gentle retinol alternative" in my practice for a good reason. Despite having no structural resemblance to vitamin A, it upregulates the same collagen-related genes that retinoids target, which translates into firmer, smoother-looking skin over time.

Because it does not bind retinoic acid receptors the way retinol does, it skips the irritation cascade of retinization — there is no forced skin-cell turnover spike, which is why patients tolerate it so much better in the first few weeks.

The evidence

A widely cited 2018 split-face trial found bakuchiol 0.5% twice daily produced improvements in wrinkle depth and pigmentation statistically comparable to retinol 0.5% nightly, but with significantly less scaling and stinging. Additional studies support its antioxidant activity and mild anti-acne effect, though the overall body of evidence remains smaller than retinol's decades of research.

Suitability

  • Sensitive and reactive skin: a lower-irritation route to retinoid-like benefits
  • Retinoid-intolerant patients: an alternative rather than a direct substitute in efficacy
  • Combination skin: pairs well in both AM and PM routines since it is not photo-destabilizing
  • Pregnancy-adjacent routines: often chosen as a precaution, though it isn't as rigorously vetted as azelaic acid

Concentration

Most formulations use 0.5%–1%, which is where the comparative trial data sits; I don't see justified benefit in pushing much past 2%. Unlike retinol, it can be used morning or night, and it doesn't require the gradual "buildup" schedule that retinoids do.

Conflicts & combinations

  • Can be layered with retinol or retinal for patients chasing extra anti-aging effect, but I usually treat this as belt-and-suspenders rather than essential
  • Pairs nicely with niacinamide and hyaluronic acid for a balanced anti-aging routine
  • Works well alongside centella asiatica for reactive or barrier-compromised skin
  • No known photosensitizing interactions, so daytime use with sunscreen is fine
Suitability
Suits skin type
dry oily combo sensitive acne prone mature normal
Targets
  • anti aging
  • uneven texture
  • hyperpigmentation
Concentration
Concentration0 – 5%
Effective from
0.5%
Max safe
2%
Frequently asked
Is bakuchiol as effective as retinol?

Studies show comparable improvements in wrinkles and pigmentation with less irritation, though the evidence base is still smaller than retinol's.

Can I use bakuchiol during pregnancy?

It's often chosen as a gentler alternative, but data is limited, so treat it with caution and discuss with your doctor.

Can I use bakuchiol and retinol together?

Yes, some routines combine both, though it may increase overall irritation risk for sensitive skin.

Does bakuchiol cause purging or peeling?

Rarely — one of its main appeals is a much lower irritation profile than retinoids.

Can bakuchiol be used in the morning?

Yes, unlike retinol it is stable in sunlight, so morning use under sunscreen is fine.

The evidence