Squalene
INCI · Squalene · also Shark liver oil derivative, Olive-derived squalene
How it works
Squalene, CAS 111-02-6, is a naturally occurring lipid produced by human sebaceous glands, where it makes up a notable portion of skin's own sebum. It also occurs in plant sources — olives most prominently — and, historically and controversially, in shark liver oil. The single-letter difference from squalane is the whole story: squalene retains reactive carbon-carbon double bonds, and those double bonds make it chemically unstable, oxidising readily on exposure to air. Hydrogenating them away produces squalane, the fully saturated and far more shelf-stable molecule that virtually all modern cosmetic products actually use.
The evidence
Because squalene is the reactive form, it is more chemically active than squalane — but this cuts both ways, and it is the reason the industry standardised on the stable version rather than the reactive one. It is worth being precise here: squalane's excellent tolerability comes precisely from removing the double bonds that would have given squalene antioxidant activity, so antioxidant claims should not be transferred between the two names as if they were interchangeable. Squalane itself has well-documented emollient and barrier-supportive properties and is among the best-tolerated moisturising lipids in cosmetic formulation.
Suitability
As a skin lipid, squalene is biomimetic by definition. In practice, if you are shopping for a facial oil or an emollient, the ingredient you want to see on the label is squalane — spelled with an a.
Concentration
Squalane is used across a very wide range depending on the formulation goal, from a few percent in lightweight serums to near-100% in single-ingredient facial oils.
Conflicts & combinations
No conflicts are described; both forms are unrestricted cosmetic ingredients under EU CosIng and FDA guidelines. Modern cosmetic squalane is predominantly derived from sugarcane fermentation or olive oil hydrogenation rather than shark liver, which is why brands increasingly specify "sugarcane-derived" on the label.
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What is the difference between squalene and squalane?
Squalene is the naturally occurring, unstable precursor; squalane is its fully hydrogenated, shelf-stable version, and it is what modern cosmetics almost always use.
Why does squalene oxidise?
It retains reactive carbon-carbon double bonds, which react readily with air. Hydrogenating them away is what turns squalene into stable squalane.
Does skin make squalene naturally?
Yes. Human sebaceous glands produce squalene, and it forms a notable portion of skin's own sebum.
Is squalane still made from sharks?
Modern cosmetic squalane is predominantly derived from sugarcane fermentation or olive oil hydrogenation, which is why brands often specify a sugarcane source.
Is squalane an antioxidant?
Antioxidant claims should be treated carefully: squalane's stability comes from removing the very double bonds that would give squalene antioxidant activity.