Keratolytic

A keratolytic is an ingredient that softens and helps shed the outermost layer of dead skin cells (the stratum corneum), loosening the bonds that hold corneocytes together so they detach more easily. The term describes an action rather than a single molecule.

Keratolytics work by different mechanisms. Salicylic acid, a beta hydroxy acid, is lipid-soluble and disrupts the intercellular "glue" between surface cells, which also lets it penetrate oily pores. Urea and lactic acid act partly by loosening keratin and partly as humectants, while higher concentrations of urea (often cited around 10 percent and above) become more sharply keratolytic. Alpha hydroxy acids such as glycolic acid weaken the cohesion of surface cells. The practical result is smoother texture, reduced buildup, and clearer pores.

These agents are commonly used for rough or bumpy skin, clogged pores, thickened areas such as heels and elbows, and conditions like keratosis pilaris. Products range from leave-on lotions and toners to targeted spot treatments and foot creams.

• Introduce gradually and avoid layering several exfoliating acids at once.
• Expect possible dryness, tingling, or peeling, especially early on.
• Daily sunscreen is advisable, as freshly exfoliated skin is more sun-sensitive.

Sensitive, broken, or eczema-prone skin may react to keratolytics, and strong formulas are best patch-tested first.