Sclerotium Gum
INCI · Sclerotium Gum · also Scleroglucan
How it works
Sclerotium gum is a branched glucan — a beta-glucan, chemically speaking — produced by fermenting the fungus Sclerotium rolfsii. In water it builds a loose three-dimensional network that resists flow at rest and comes apart under shear, which is the textbook description of a shear-thinning gel: firm in the jar, fluid under a finger, firm again the moment you stop.
Its reputation among formulators is for how that gel feels. Gums as a family are prone to a sticky drag and to rolling into pills when something is layered over them, and sclerotium gum is chosen partly to reduce that. It is frequently paired with a second thickener rather than carrying the whole structure alone. It also helps stabilise emulsions, by keeping the water phase thick enough that oil droplets cannot travel through it. And because the network rebuilds the moment shear stops, a formula thickened this way can be pumped or squeezed out and still sit still where it lands.
The evidence
There is nothing to prove here in the efficacy sense, because it makes no efficacy claim. It is a structural material, and the evidence for it is that formulas built with it behave as intended.
What is worth naming is a family resemblance marketing sometimes reaches for. Sclerotium gum is a beta-glucan, and beta-glucans from oats and yeast are studied for soothing and barrier effects on skin. That does not transfer automatically. Beta-glucans differ in size, branching and solubility, and a polysaccharide chosen and dosed to build a gel is not the same proposition as one chosen and dosed to soothe. If a label leans on the glucan connection, that is the question to put to it.
Suitability
- Broadly well tolerated; it does not penetrate and has no activity on skin at the levels used
- Turns up in gels, serums, light emulsions and sunscreens at every price
- Often presented as the natural-origin alternative to a synthetic gel former, which is a formulating and supply choice rather than a safety one
- Not an active: it decides texture, not outcome
Concentration
No figure is given. Gums work at fractions of a percent and the level is set by the viscosity target, not by any benefit to skin. There is no level at which more of it does anything for you.
Conflicts & combinations
Nothing conflicts with it. The one practical note is shared with every thickener: heavily gummed layers are the ones most likely to pill under sunscreen or makeup, so when a routine starts rolling, the gels in it are the first place to look.
- Effective from
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- Max safe
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Is it the same as xanthan gum?
No — a different organism and a different structure, doing the same job. The reason a formulator picks one over the other is usually how the finished gel feels.
It is a beta-glucan. Does that mean it soothes?
Chemically it belongs to that family, but the soothing evidence belongs to specific beta-glucans from oats and yeast and does not carry across on the strength of the name.
Is a natural gum better than a synthetic one?
Not as a rule. Both are inert at use levels and the choice is about texture, stability and supply rather than safety.
Does it cause pilling?
Gum-thickened layers are among the likeliest to roll if the next layer goes on too soon. Letting each layer set is the fix.
Any reason to avoid it?
None that is established. It sits in the water phase, does not penetrate and is not associated with a particular reaction pattern.