Melatonin
INCI · Melatonin · also N-acetyl-5-methoxytryptamine
How it works
Melatonin is best known as the hormone that governs circadian rhythm, but skin makes its own supply and carries receptors for it, independently of the pineal gland. Its relevance to skincare is as an antioxidant, and an unusually capable one: it scavenges free radicals directly, and its metabolites are themselves antioxidants, so one molecule neutralises several oxidants in a cascade rather than being spent once.
It also supports mitochondrial function and appears to raise the activity of the skin's own antioxidant enzymes, which is a different mechanism from simply adding more antioxidant capacity from outside.
The evidence
The laboratory picture is good — protection against UV-induced oxidative damage is well demonstrated in cell and ex vivo skin models, and small human studies suggest reduced erythema when applied before UV exposure.
The clinical picture is early. Human trials on wrinkles, elasticity and hydration exist but are small and often short, and this is nowhere near the evidence base of a retinoid or a vitamin C formulation. The night-repair positioning it is sold on is a reasonable extrapolation from circadian biology rather than a demonstrated schedule advantage.
Suitability
- Ageing and photodamaged skin, as an evening antioxidant layer
- Sensitive skin: it is well tolerated and mildly anti-inflammatory
- Not for pregnancy, on absent data rather than known harm
Concentration
Commonly 0.05% to 0.1%. It is light-sensitive, so opaque packaging is not a nicety, and the material degrades in formulas with a poorly chosen pH.
Conflicts & combinations
No conflicts. The question people reasonably ask is whether it will make them sleepy, and the answer is no at cosmetic levels — transdermal absorption of a topical dose this small does not produce meaningful plasma concentrations, and it is not the delivery route used for sleep supplementation. That said, because it is a hormone, the absence of pregnancy and breastfeeding data is a real gap rather than a formality, and anyone in that group has better-evidenced antioxidants available.
- Effective from
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- Max safe
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Does topical melatonin make you sleepy?
No. At cosmetic concentrations, transdermal absorption does not produce meaningful plasma levels, and skin is not the route used for sleep supplementation.
Does melatonin help skin?
As an antioxidant, the laboratory evidence is good and it protects against UV-induced oxidative damage. The clinical evidence on wrinkles and elasticity is early and small-scale.
Why is it used at night?
The positioning follows from circadian biology and from it being an antioxidant rather than a photoprotectant. It is a reasonable extrapolation, not a demonstrated scheduling advantage.
Is melatonin safe in pregnancy?
There is not enough data. It is a hormone, so the gap is a real one, and better-evidenced antioxidants are available for that period.
Does melatonin skincare expire quickly?
It is light-sensitive, so opaque packaging matters, and it degrades in a formula with a poorly chosen pH.
- PubMedPMID 30583618 ↗