Ingredient Encyclopedia

Baobab Oil

Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil

A nourishing plant oil from the baobab tree seed, rich in fatty acids and vitamins, that softens skin and reinforces the moisture barrier. It absorbs moderately quickly.

Alcohol Denat.

Ethanol made undrinkable by added denaturants, used as a fast-evaporating solvent. It dissolves ingredients that will not go into water, thins heavy textures into something that feels weightless, and helps other ingredients absorb — which is why it appears in a great many well-regarded sunscreens and essences.

Aqua

Purified water, and in most skincare the single largest ingredient by weight. It is the solvent everything water-soluble dissolves into and the phase an emulsion is built around, which is why it usually sits first on an ingredient list.

Argan Oil

Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil

Softens skin and supplies antioxidants that support elasticity and barrier function.

Behenyl Alcohol

A long-chain fatty alcohol, waxy and solid at room temperature, used to thicken creams and hold oil and water together. Despite the word alcohol it behaves nothing like ethanol: it softens rather than dries, in the same family as cetyl and stearyl alcohol.

Bentonite

A swelling clay that thickens and suspends in a formula, and in a mask absorbs surface oil and water as it dries.

Bifida Ferment Lysate

Strengthens the skin barrier and calms sensitivity using fermented probiotic filtrate.

Borage Seed Oil

Borago Officinalis Seed Oil

A plant oil with one of the highest natural concentrations of gamma-linolenic acid (GLA), used to support the barrier and comfort dry, irritated skin. It replenishes essential fatty acids.

Shea Butter

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Delivers intense emollient moisture and helps calm dry, irritated skin.

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

An ester emollient built from benzoic acid and medium-chain fatty alcohols. It is unusually good at dissolving other ingredients, so besides softening skin it often serves as the solvent that keeps a sunscreen's filters or a foundation's pigments evenly dispersed.

Tamanu Oil

Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil

A thick, dark plant oil traditionally used to soothe and condition skin and support the appearance of blemished or scarred areas. It is rich in fatty acids and natural antioxidants.

Camellia Oil

Camellia Japonica Seed Oil

A silky plant oil, traditional in Japanese skincare, that is high in oleic acid and antioxidants and absorbs relatively quickly to soften skin. It leaves a light, conditioned finish.

Hemp Seed Oil

Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil

A light plant oil with a balanced omega-3 and omega-6 fatty-acid profile that supports the skin barrier without a heavy feel. It contains no cannabinoids of note.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

A lightweight emollient derived from coconut or palm oil and glycerin that softens skin and gives formulas a silky, fast-absorbing slip. It is widely used as a stable, non-greasy oil base.

Carbomer

A synthetic polymer that swells in water into a clear gel, which is why it appears high on the ingredient list of so many gel-textured serums and cleansers. It only thickens once neutralised with an alkali, so it usually travels alongside sodium hydroxide or triethanolamine on the label.

Safflower Oil

Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil

A linoleic-acid-rich plant oil that conditions skin and supports the moisture barrier with a light, non-greasy texture. It is chemically similar to sunflower oil.

Beeswax

Cera Alba

A natural wax from honeybees used to thicken formulas and form a breathable protective film that helps seal in moisture. It gives structure to balms and salves.

Ceramide AP

A ceramide built from an alpha-hydroxy fatty acid on a phytosphingosine base, used in barrier-repair blends to help rebuild the stratum corneum's lipid bilayers.

Ceramide AS

A ceramide pairing an alpha-hydroxy fatty acid with a sphingosine base rather than the phytosphingosine used in NP or AP, contributing to the barrier's lamellar lipid bilayers.

Ceramide EOP

The ester-linked ceramide species: an esterified omega-hydroxy fatty acid on a phytosphingosine base, used in barrier blends to help rebuild stratum corneum lipids.

Ceramide NP

The most widely used cosmetic ceramide: a non-hydroxy fatty acid joined to a phytosphingosine base, used to replenish the lipid bilayers of the skin barrier.

Ceramides

Ceramide NP

Replenishes the lipids that hold the skin barrier together, locking in moisture and blocking irritants.

Cetearyl Alcohol

A blend of fatty alcohols that thickens and stabilizes creams while acting as an emollient that softens and smooths skin. It is a workhorse of lotion and cream formulation.

Cetearyl Glucoside

A non-ionic emulsifier that pairs a fatty alcohol with glucose, used to hold oil and water together in creams and lotions. It usually arrives as part of a blend with cetearyl alcohol, which is why the two so often appear in sequence on a label.

Cetyl Alcohol

A fatty alcohol used as an emollient and thickener that softens skin and gives creams a smooth, stable body. Despite the name it is non-drying, unlike simple alcohols.

Cholesterol

A key lipid that, alongside ceramides and fatty acids, rebuilds and reinforces the skin barrier.

Cocamidopropyl Betaine

A coconut-derived amphoteric surfactant used in cleansers, shampoos and micellar waters. It rarely does the cleaning alone; its usual job is to sit alongside a stronger surfactant, thicken the mixture and soften how harsh that partner feels on skin.

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

A light plant-derived ester made from coconut alcohol and short-chain fatty acids. It spreads thinly, leaves a dry, non-greasy finish and is the usual choice when a brand wants a silicone-like slip without silicones or mineral oil.

Coco-Glucoside

A mild nonionic cleansing agent built from coconut-derived fatty alcohols and glucose. It lifts oil and dirt with far less protein disruption than the classic sulfates, and foams gently rather than abundantly.

Coconut Oil

Cocos Nucifera Oil

A plant oil rich in saturated fatty acids that softens skin and forms an occlusive film limiting water loss. It is solid at cool temperatures and melts on contact with skin.

Cyclopentasiloxane

A volatile silicone that gives a weightless, silky glide and then evaporates, leaving a smooth non-greasy finish. It is used to improve spreadability and skin feel.

Decyl Glucoside

A non-ionic surfactant made by joining a plant-derived fatty alcohol to glucose. It foams modestly, tolerates a wide pH range and is often chosen for cleansers positioned at sensitive or infant skin.

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

A very light, dry-feeling emollient ester that thins out heavy oils and makes creams spread easily. It is also a good solvent for oil-soluble UV filters, so it turns up constantly in sunscreens where texture is the hardest problem to solve.

Dimethicone

A silicone that forms a breathable, water-resistant film giving skin a smooth, silky feel while reducing water loss and softening rough texture. It also improves product slip and blurs the look of pores.

Ectoin

Protects skin cells from environmental stress and locks in moisture at a cellular level.

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

A light synthetic ester used as an emollient and as a carrier for oil-soluble ingredients. It spreads quickly and leaves a dry, silky finish rather than the weight of a plant oil, which is why it appears in sunscreens and primers as well as creams.

Glyceryl Stearate

A widely used emulsifier and emollient that binds oil and water into stable creams while softening and conditioning skin. It contributes a smooth, cushiony texture.

Sunflower Seed Oil

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

A light plant oil high in linoleic acid that reinforces the skin barrier and softens without a heavy finish. Its fatty-acid profile makes it a popular gentle facial oil.

Sea Buckthorn Oil

Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil

A carotenoid-rich plant oil that comes in two very different forms — fruit and seed — with different fatty acids and very different colour.

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

A synthetic hydrocarbon liquid often used where mineral oil once was. It sits on the surface, slows water loss and gives a cushioned, glossy slip, and it does not oxidise or go rancid the way many plant oils eventually do.

Hydroxyethylcellulose

A thickener made by chemically modifying plant cellulose so it dissolves in water. It builds a clear, slightly stringy gel and is the backbone of many gel cleansers, masks and water-light serums.

Isododecane

A volatile branched hydrocarbon that spreads a product thinly and then evaporates, leaving whatever it carried behind. That behaviour is why it is the backbone of long-wear makeup and of sunscreens that need to lay down an even film without feeling wet.

Isopropyl Myristate

A synthetic ester used as a lightweight emollient that reduces greasiness and improves the spread and absorption of formulas. It gives a dry, silky after-feel.

Kaolin

A soft white aluminium silicate clay that absorbs oil and lends body to masks, powders and cleansers. Among the clays used on skin it is the mildest, drawing less aggressively than bentonite or rhassoul.

Lactobacillus Ferment

A probiotic-derived ferment filtrate that supports barrier function and skin microbiome balance.

Lanolin

A waxy substance from sheep's wool that is a powerful emollient and occlusive, closely mimicking the skin's own surface lipids to soften and seal in moisture. It is a mainstay of very dry-skin and lip care.

Lauric Acid

A saturated twelve-carbon fatty acid, most abundant in coconut and palm kernel oil, used as an emollient and as the feedstock for a great many surfactants and soaps. It has drawn research interest for activity against Cutibacterium acnes in laboratory conditions.

Lecithin

A phospholipid, often from soy or sunflower, that acts as an emollient and natural emulsifier and supplies barrier-supporting lipids. It also helps deliver other ingredients.

Meadowfoam Seed Oil

Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil

A remarkably stable plant oil with long-chain fatty acids that form a light protective film and lock in moisture. Its stability makes it resistant to going rancid.

Linoleic Acid

An essential omega-6 fatty acid that reinforces the skin barrier and helps normalize sebum composition.

Macadamia Oil

Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil

A rich plant oil high in oleic and palmitoleic acids that cushions and softens skin, mimicking some of the skin's own surface lipids. It has a nourishing, velvety feel.

Mango Butter

Mangifera Indica Seed Butter

A soft plant butter pressed from mango seeds that conditions and softens skin while helping limit water loss. It has a lighter feel than many other butters.

Neem Oil

Melia Azadirachta Seed Oil

A plant oil from the neem tree, long used in traditional care, valued as an emollient with soothing properties for blemish-prone and irritated skin. It has a distinctive strong odor.

Mica

A naturally occurring mineral ground into fine platelets that reflect light. In skincare it is what makes a product look luminous on skin, and in makeup it is the base of most shimmer and many pearlescent finishes.

Moringa Oil

Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil

An unusually stable seed oil, high in oleic acid, valued for shelf life and slip rather than for any single active.

Black Cumin Seed Oil

Nigella Sativa Seed Oil

A traditional plant oil rich in fatty acids and thymoquinone that conditions skin and is used to calm the look of blemished, reactive skin. It has antioxidant properties.

Octyldodecanol

A branched fatty alcohol that is liquid at room temperature, unlike the waxy cetyl and stearyl alcohols. It behaves as a light oil: softening skin, thinning heavy waxes and dissolving oil-soluble ingredients.

Evening Primrose Oil

Oenothera Biennis Oil

A plant oil notable for its gamma-linolenic acid (GLA) content, an omega-6 fatty acid that supports the skin barrier and soothes dryness. It is often used in products for reactive, dry skin.

Olive Oil

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

A classic emollient plant oil high in oleic acid that softens skin and limits water loss. It has a long history of use in soaps and body care.

Oleic Acid

The dominant monounsaturated fatty acid in olive, avocado, marula and many other plant oils, and the reason those oils feel rich and sink in slowly. It softens and conditions, and it loosens the packing of the skin's own lipids enough to help other ingredients pass through.

Prickly Pear Seed Oil

Opuntia Ficus-Indica Seed Oil

A lightweight, linoleic-acid-rich plant oil high in vitamin E that conditions skin and provides antioxidant support with a fast-absorbing feel. It is prized in luxury facial oils.

Mineral Oil

Paraffinum Liquidum

A refined, inert occlusive and emollient oil that softens skin and slows water loss without penetrating deeply. Cosmetic grades are highly purified and non-comedogenic in testing.

PEG-100 Stearate

A nonionic emulsifier — stearic acid with a polyethylene glycol chain attached — that holds oil and water together. It is almost always seen paired with glyceryl stearate, the two of them forming the workhorse system behind most lotions and creams.

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

A solubiliser made by attaching polyethylene glycol chains to hydrogenated castor oil. It performs the same job as a polysorbate — carrying oils and fragrance into water — and is common in clear cleansers, toners and micellar formulas.

Avocado Oil

Persea Gratissima Oil

A rich, oleic-acid-heavy plant oil that deeply softens skin and helps seal in moisture. It is high in fatty acids and fat-soluble vitamins.

Petrolatum

A refined semi-solid occlusive that forms a protective barrier reducing transepidermal water loss by a large margin. It is one of the most effective and inert moisturizing barrier agents.

Phytosphingosine

A skin-identical lipid that rebuilds the barrier and calms acne-related inflammation.

Phytosterols

Plant-derived sterols from the same structural family as cholesterol, the sterol the skin's own barrier lipids are built on. In cosmetics they are added to soften, to help emulsions hold together, and for a calming effect on skin that looks irritated.

Polysorbate 20

A non-ionic solubiliser that lets small amounts of oil, fragrance or an oil-soluble active dissolve into a water base without separating. It is what keeps a clear toner or micellar water clear instead of showing droplets.

Sweet Almond Oil

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil

A nourishing plant oil rich in oleic acid and vitamin E that softens and soothes skin while reducing surface dryness. It has a moderately rich, cushiony feel.

Apricot Kernel Oil

Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil

A soft, moderately light plant oil rich in oleic and linoleic acids that softens and conditions skin with a pleasant, non-greasy finish. It is popular in facial and massage oils.

Pomegranate Seed Oil

Punica Granatum Seed Oil

A plant oil distinctive for its punicic-acid content, an omega-5 fatty acid, that conditions skin and provides antioxidant support. It helps replenish the barrier.

Castor Oil

Ricinus Communis Seed Oil

A thick, sticky plant oil high in ricinoleic acid used as an emollient and film-former that gives slip and shine in balms and cleansers. It is strongly occlusive.

Rosehip Oil

Rosa Canina Fruit Oil

Nourishes dry skin and supplies antioxidants and essential fatty acids that support the barrier.

Royal Jelly

Royal Jelly Extract

A bee secretion containing 10-HDA, proteins and vitamins, with a documented record of serious allergic reactions.

Marula Oil

Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil

Provides fast-absorbing emollient hydration with a high antioxidant fatty acid content.

Sesame Oil

Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil

A traditional emollient plant oil, prominent in Ayurvedic body care, that softens skin and offers antioxidant support from natural lignans. It has a medium-weight, conditioning feel.

Silica

Finely milled silicon dioxide, used in cosmetics as a powder rather than as an active. Depending on how the particles are made it can absorb oil, blur the look of texture by scattering light, or simply stop a powder from caking.

Jojoba Oil

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Mimics the skin's natural sebum to moisturize without a heavy feel.

Snail Mucin

Snail Secretion Filtrate

Hydrates, soothes, and supports barrier repair with a mix of glycoproteins and hyaluronic acid.

Snail Secretion Filtrate

A filtered snail mucin rich in glycoproteins, glycosaminoglycans and allantoin that hydrates and supports repair.

Sodium Chloride

Ordinary salt, used in cosmetics for reasons that have nothing to do with flavour. In surfactant cleansers a small amount thickens the liquid; elsewhere it appears as a scrub particle or as part of a mineral-water extract.

Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate

An amino-acid surfactant built from coconut fatty acids and glutamic acid. It is mildly acidic in use, which lets a cleanser be formulated close to skin's own pH without a large correction, and it gives a soft, low-squeak rinse.

Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate

A coconut-derived surfactant that produces a dense, creamy lather and is solid at room temperature, which is why it turns up in syndet cleansing bars as well as in powder-to-foam washes and creamy liquid cleansers.

Sodium Hydroxide

A strong alkali used in tiny amounts to raise a formula's pH to where it needs to sit. It is the counterweight to acidic ingredients: an exfoliating acid or a vitamin C serum is neutralised with it until the finished product lands in its intended range.

Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate

A mild amino-acid-derived cleansing surfactant that foams well and is routinely mistaken for a sulfate because of its name.

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate

A strong anionic surfactant that lifts oil and debris off skin and hair and foams heavily while doing it. Dermatology research uses it as the standard way to provoke barrier disruption in a test patch, which is a fair indication of how efficiently it strips lipids.

Sodium Polyacrylate

A synthetic polymer that absorbs many times its own weight in water and thickens it into a smooth, non-stringy gel. Small amounts turn a watery mixture into a gel-cream that spreads evenly and does not run.

Sorbitan Stearate

An emulsifier made from sorbitol and stearic acid, oil-loving in character. It is normally used with a water-loving partner such as a polysorbate, the pair together forming a more stable emulsion than either would alone.

Squalane

A stable, lightweight emollient that mimics skin's natural sebum to soften and protect the barrier without greasiness.

Squalene

The unstable natural precursor of squalane: a lipid your own sebaceous glands make, also found in olives and, historically, shark liver oil.

Stearic Acid

A fatty acid used as an emollient, thickener and emulsifier that gives creams body and a soft after-feel. It occurs naturally in many plant and animal fats.

Stearyl Alcohol

A fatty alcohol that works as an emollient and thickener, giving formulas a rich, stable texture and helping soften the skin surface. It is non-drying.

Cocoa Butter

Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter

A rich plant butter from the cocoa bean that melts at skin temperature to form a softening, occlusive layer that reduces moisture loss. It is high in fatty acids and firms up at room temperature.

Cupuacu Butter

Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter

A plant butter from the Amazonian cupuacu fruit noted for its high fatty-acid content and its ability to hold water, giving both softening and hydrating effects. It leaves a cushiony, conditioned feel.

Triethanolamine

An alkaline ingredient used to raise pH and to neutralise carbomer, the step that turns a cloudy suspension into a clear gel. It also forms soap-like emulsifiers in situ when combined with a fatty acid such as stearic acid.

Wheat Germ Oil

Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil

A rich plant oil that is one of the highest natural sources of vitamin E, used to nourish dry skin and add antioxidant protection to formulas. It also helps stabilize other oils.

Grapeseed Oil

Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil

Provides lightweight moisture and antioxidant polyphenols that help protect the skin barrier.

Xanthan Gum

A polysaccharide produced by bacterial fermentation of sugars, used to thicken water-based formulas and hold them together. It is what gives serums and gels their body and what keeps suspended particles from settling out in the bottle.